Flip on the kitchen light and roaches scatter—fast, flat, and relentless. Beyond the ick factor, they contaminate food, worsen asthma and allergies, and spread quickly through cracks, plumbing, and shared walls. Even spotless homes and businesses can get them, and a few visible roaches usually signal many more hiding close by.

The fix isn’t a single spray-and-pray treatment. It’s a focused plan: remove food, water, and clutter; seal entry points; map activity with monitors; then hit the infestation where it lives using precision gel baits and targeted dusts—backed by an insect growth regulator to break the life cycle. Done right, it’s safe for families and pets, avoids gimmicks like foggers that make problems worse, and delivers steady results you can see on a realistic timeline.

This step-by-step guide shows you exactly how to get rid of cockroaches for good. You’ll learn how to identify your species and hotspots, deep-clean and exclude, place baits like a pro, use dusts and crack-and-crevice sprays only where they count, and avoid common mistakes. We’ll cover apartment and commercial strategies, product quantities to buy, a 30‑day results plan, long-term prevention, and when it’s time to bring in a professional.

Step 1. Inspect and identify your cockroach species and hotspots

Before you treat, do a 10–15 minute night inspection with a bright flashlight. Activity spikes after dark. Look for pepper-like fecal specks, shed skins, and small bean-shaped egg cases to trace routes. Correct ID steers where you focus and how you bait.

• German (Blattella germanica): ~1/2", light brown with two dark stripes; kitchens/baths, inside appliances.
• American (Periplaneta americana): ~1 1/2", reddish brown; basements, floor drains, utility chases, sewers.
• Oriental (Blatta orientalis): ~1", shiny dark; cool, damp areas—sump pits, crawlspaces, ground-level drains.
• Brownbanded (Supella longipalpa): small with yellow bands; higher, drier spots—upper cabinets, behind wall décor.

Use what you see to mark hotspots (painter’s tape or a note). Focus cleaning, sealing, and gel baits here:

• Under/behind refrigerators, stoves, and dishwashers
• Sink cabinets and plumbing penetrations
• Trash areas, pantries, and shelf edges with spotting
• Wall voids behind outlet/switch plates and baseboard gaps
• Drains/sumps/boiler rooms (American/Oriental) and upper cabinets/electronics (Brownbanded)

Step 2. Declutter and deny food, water, and shelter

If you want to know how to get rid of cockroaches efficiently, start by cutting off what keeps them thriving. Roaches flourish where crumbs, moisture, and clutter converge. Tightening up sanitation makes baits irresistible and shrinks hiding spots so your treatment works faster and lasts longer.

• Seal all food: Use hard, tight-lidded containers or refrigerate; no open bags or boxes.
• Clean nightly: Wash dishes, wipe counters/stove, and sweep; don’t leave grease or crumbs.
• Manage trash smartly: Tight-fitting lids; empty daily; move bins outside; rinse recyclables.
• Declutter and containerize: Purge paper bags/boxes; store items in lidded plastic bins.
• Fix moisture issues: Repair leaks; dry sinks/tubs; wipe up condensation; clean drains.
• Pet feeding rules: Pick up bowls at night; store pet food in sealed containers.
• Laundry/bath discipline: Hang damp towels; don’t leave wet mops/sponges in sinks.
• Paper and glue control: Reduce stacks of mail, cardboard, and stored packaging—prime harborage and food traces.

Step 3. Deep clean kitchens and bathrooms to reset the environment

Think of this as wiping the slate clean so baits outcompete every crumb, grease film, and roach scent mark. A targeted scrub removes food, moisture, and fecal “pepper” that guide roaches back. If you’re serious about how to get rid of cockroaches for good, this reset makes every next step hit harder.

• Vacuum first (HEPA if possible): Crevices, baseboards, drawer slides, and under/behind appliances. Change bags often and double-bag for disposal.
• Degrease and wash hard surfaces: Use a cleanser—ammonia + water works well—for counters, stove sides, cabinet seams, shelf lips, and backsplash edges.
• Sweep, then sponge mop floors: Finish by drying thoroughly; standing water feeds roaches.
• Scrub sinks and clean drains: Remove food film and buildup; dry basins and fixtures nightly.
• Empty and wipe cabinets/drawers: Focus on corners and undersides; return only sealed items.
• Bathrooms: Clean around toilet bases, vanities, and plumbing cutouts; dry towels and mats; store sponges dry.
• Trash and recyclables: Wash bins, use tight lids, rinse recyclables, and take them out regularly.

Step 4. Seal entry points and harborages (exclusion checklist)

Exclusion locks roaches out and strips away the cracks and voids they use to hide, breed, and travel—especially between apartments and utility chases. After your deep clean, walk kitchens, baths, basements, and utility rooms with a flashlight and sealant. This is a core step in how to get rid of cockroaches for good and makes every bait placement more effective.

• Seal seams: Caulk wall–floor and wall–ceiling joints, baseboards, and trim gaps.
• Cabinet hardening: Caulk cabinet seams, shelf lips, and the sink splash board; skip shelf paper.
• Plumbing penetrations: Seal gaps around pipes under sinks, toilets, and appliances; pack with copper mesh, then caulk/foam.
• Utilities/wires: Close openings around outlet/switch boxes and cable/pipe chases in walls and ceilings.
• Appliance voids: Seal holes and kick-plate gaps behind/under fridges, stoves, and dishwashers.
• Doors: Install tight door sweeps on exterior doors; weatherstrip thresholds.
• Windows: Repair or add insect mesh screens; fix frame gaps.
• Drains/sumps: Ensure floor drain grates are intact; seal surrounding cracks and joints.
• Walls/finishes: Remove/repair loose wallpaper and cracked plaster.
• Multi‑unit focus: Prioritize common walls and plumbing stacks to reduce roach migration between units.

Step 5. Map activity with sticky monitors to guide your treatment

Sticky glue traps don’t cure an infestation—but they reveal where roaches travel, which species you’re catching, and whether your plan is working. Place monitors flush along edges and corners (roaches “edge-run”), then use catches to prioritize where you’ll bait, dust, and seal. Avoid spraying cleaners or insecticides near monitors, which can repel roaches.

• Place where traffic is highest: Under/behind refrigerators and stoves, under sinks at plumbing cutouts, inside cabinets and pantry corners, near trash/recycling, and along baseboards in kitchens and bathrooms.
• Adjust by species: Near floor drains, sumps, and utility chases for American/Oriental; higher locations—upper cabinets, behind wall hangings, and electronics—for Brownbanded.
• Label and log: Mark location/date on each trap and keep a simple catch log.
• Refine your map: The heaviest-catch spots become primary bait and dust targets; move/add monitors until patterns are clear, and replace traps when dusty or full.

Step 6. Make gel baits your primary kill method (small, frequent placements where roaches live)

This is the engine of your plan. Gel baits beat sprays because roaches feed in hidden cracks, then transfer the toxicant within the colony via sputum and feces. If you’re serious about how to get rid of cockroaches fast and for good, think “many tiny meals” placed exactly where they travel.

• Choose proven gels: Look for actives like fipronil, abamectin, hydramethylnon, or dinotefuran.
• Place tiny dabs, not blobs: Do pea‑sized (or smaller) dots in corners/edges; many small placements outperform a few large. Under a kitchen sink alone can take more than a dozen.
• Target real harborage: Under/behind fridges, stoves, and dishwashers; plumbing cutouts; cabinet seams and hinges; pantry corners; near trash; upper cabinets/electronics for brownbanded. For appliances, place a bait station behind/under to draw roaches out.
• Work the edges: Install placements flush to corners and wall–floor junctions—roaches edge‑run.
• Keep it attractive: Don’t spray cleaners or insecticides near bait; check weekly and replenish eaten/dried gel.
• Use safely: Keep off food‑prep areas and out of reach of kids/pets.

Expect exposed roaches to die in 1–3 days, with a noticeable population drop within a few weeks as the transfer effect kicks in.

Step 7. Dust voids and hidden spaces with boric acid or silica-based desiccants

Dusts finish what gel baits start by treating the tight voids roaches actually live in. Boric acid kills when roaches groom it off; diatomaceous earth (a silica-based desiccant) dries them out. Apply a barely visible film with a bulb/bellows duster—heavy piles repel. Keep dusts dry; boric acid retains potency almost indefinitely if deposits stay dry.

• Target key voids: Cabinet crevices and corners, wall–floor junctions behind refrigerators, stoves, and dishwashers.
• Plumbing and wires: Puff into gaps around sink/toilet pipes and utility chases; include shared walls in multi‑unit buildings.
• Kick spaces: Inject the hollow under base cabinets via cracks along the toe‑kick or existing gaps.
• Technique: Insert duster tip deep, wipe visible traces, avoid countertops/food surfaces, and never dust inside electronics.
• Safety/maintenance: Wear a mask, keep from kids/pets, don’t spray cleaners over dust, and reapply after leaks or heavy cleaning.

Step 8. Use targeted crack-and-crevice sprays only when necessary

Sprays are a support tool—not your primary way to get rid of cockroaches. Reserve them for tight harborages you can’t effectively bait or dust. Apply with a straw into cracks and voids where roaches hide; avoid broadcast spraying walls, floors, baseboards, and countertops since roaches don’t linger there and you’ll risk repelling them and contaminating bait.

• Where to treat: Deep seams around plumbing cutouts, behind backsplashes, under toe‑kicks, hinge seams, appliance voids, and wall/utility chases; around (not into) floor drains for American/Oriental roaches.
• How to apply: Use short pin‑stream bursts into cracks; remove or cover food/utensils, ventilate, and follow the label.
• Bait compatibility: Do not spray over or near bait placements. Treat separate areas and replenish gels later if needed.

Step 9. Stop the life cycle with an insect growth regulator (IGR)

Killing visible roaches is only half the job; you must shut down the next generation. An insect growth regulator (IGR) disrupts development so nymphs don’t become reproducing adults and egg cases fail. Used alongside gel baits and dusts, it breaks the life cycle and accelerates lasting control.

• Timing/compatibility: Apply after cleaning and sealing; don’t spray over bait placements. Separate treatments by area or time.
• Focused placement: Treat crack‑and‑crevice zones—plumbing cutouts, base cabinets, appliance voids, wall/utility chases. Near drains/sumps for American/Oriental; higher cabinets/electronics for brownbanded.
• Treat your map: Cover hotspots identified by sticky monitors plus adjacent voids; in multi‑unit buildings, include shared walls and plumbing stacks.
• Intervals/results: Reapply per the product label and track trap catches—fewer small nymphs over the next few weeks signals progress.
• Safety: Remove/cover food and utensils, ventilate, keep kids/pets away until dry, and follow label directions.

Step 10. Avoid foggers and gimmicks that make infestations worse

Skip “bombs” and shortcuts. Total-release foggers don’t reach the cracks and voids where roaches live, their aerosols are repellent (driving roaches deeper and into adjacent units), and they’re flammable. Broadcast residues also contaminate your bait—the tool that actually wins. If you’re serious about how to get rid of cockroaches, avoid tactics that undercut your core treatment.

• Bug bombs/foggers: Poor crack reach, repellent, fire hazard.
• Baseboard/floor sprays: Roaches don’t stay there; residues repel and foul bait.
• Heavy boric acid piles: Roaches avoid them—apply a barely visible dust.

Step 11. Adjust tactics for German vs. American and oriental cockroaches (indoor vs. drain/basement issues)

Species dictates strategy. German roaches live entirely indoors and pack into warm, tight kitchen and bathroom cracks—perfect for gel baiting and dusting. American and oriental roaches congregate in dark, moist zones—floor drains, sump pumps, basements, crawlspaces, boiler rooms, and even sewers—so exclusion, moisture control, and targeted treatments around utility pathways become critical.

• German cockroaches (indoor specialists): Flood hotspots with many tiny gel placements in cabinet seams, hinges, and plumbing cutouts; place stations behind/under appliances and near trash. Dust voids (toe‑kicks, wall gaps), run IGR in kitchen/bath cabinets, seal cracks and pipe gaps, dry sinks nightly, and use monitors to refine placements.

• American/oriental cockroaches (drain/basement travelers): Reduce moisture (fix leaks, dehumidify), clean drains, install intact grates/screens, and seal utility penetrations and door thresholds/sweeps. Place gels along wall–floor edges near floor drains, sump rims, laundry/boiler rooms; dust pipe chases and toe‑kicks; use pin‑stream crack-and-crevice sprays around (not into) drains and chases. Monitor at drains/basements and harden exteriors—tight screens, sealed gaps, tidy trash areas.

Step 12. Apartment and multi-unit plans (coordinate with neighbors and management)

In multi-unit buildings, roaches move between apartments through shared walls, ceilings, pipes, and wire chases—so one clean unit can be reinfested by a neighbor. To get rid of cockroaches for good, pair your in-unit baiting and dusting with building-level cooperation. Skip foggers, which drive roaches deeper and into adjacent units, and push for a coordinated, same-week response.

• Loop in management fast: Request an integrated plan targeting connected stacks and common areas the same week you treat.
• Coordinate neighbors: Align on decluttering, nightly cleaning, and sealed trash/recycling to make baits outcompete food.
• Harden your unit: Seal pipe/wire penetrations with copper mesh + caulk; tighten baseboards; add door sweeps.
• Treat shared sides first: Place many small gel dots and light boric acid dust along plumbing stacks, common walls, toe‑kicks, and under sinks.
• Monitor migration paths: Set sticky traps flush to edges at unit entries, kitchens/baths, and along shared walls; log weekly.
• Add an IGR across units: Apply in kitchens/baths and utility chases to break the life cycle building-wide.
• Target common zones: Management should clean drains, fix leaks/dehumidify basements, service trash rooms/chutes, and seal utility chases and grates.

Step 13. Commercial and food service protocols that keep you compliant and pest-free

In kitchens that serve the public, cockroaches threaten food safety and inspections, so control must be proactive, documented, and focused where roaches actually live. The same science applies: tighten sanitation, exclude entry points, map activity, and use gel baits and dusts in cracks and voids—never broadcast sprays that contaminate prep areas or repel roaches.

• Nightly close: Sweep, degrease, and sponge mop; dry floors and mats; empty/clean trash with tight lids; rinse recyclables.
• Exclusion: Add door sweeps and window screens; seal gaps at pipes, wires, baseboards, and equipment penetrations.
• Drains/basements: Clean drains; monitor and treat around floor drains, sumps, and utility chases (American/Oriental hotspots).
• Baits first: Many small gel placements at edges/hinges/voids; keep cleaners and sprays away from bait; remove/cover food/utensils during treatment.
• Monitoring and records: Place sticky traps flush to edges behind/under equipment; log counts and adjust placements.
• Exterior control: Keep dumpsters clean, lidded, and away from doors; tidy trash areas; repair screens—foggers are not recommended.

Step 14. Pet and child safety while you get rid of cockroaches

Safety comes from precision: place products where roaches live—not where kids and pets play or eat. Gel baits and IGRs have low odor and, when applied in cracks and voids, are minimally hazardous; boric acid and desiccant dusts are safe when kept dry, hidden, and sparse. Always follow labels and time treatments when rooms can be cleared and ventilated.

• Bait smart: Tiny gel dots in cracks/hinges; wipe smears. Use sealed bait stations in accessible areas.
• Dust discreetly: Light, barely visible films in voids; avoid counters/food surfaces; wear a mask; keep dry.
• Spray carefully: Crack-and-crevice only; remove/cover food and utensils; ventilate; keep kids/pets out until dry.
• Store/dispose: Lock products away; double‑bag vacuum bags; keep syringes/dusters out of reach.
• Pet routine: Pick up bowls nightly; store pet food sealed.
• Never fog: Foggers are repellent and flammable—skip them entirely.

Step 15. A 30-day timeline to get results fast (0–24 hours, 7 days, 30 days)

A simple cadence keeps you on track and shows you exactly how to get rid of cockroaches on a visible, realistic schedule. You’ll see early wins from gel baits, then steady collapse as dusts and an IGR break the life cycle. Stick to this timeline and use your monitor map to guide each follow‑up.

• 0–24 hours: Deep clean, seal, set sticky monitors, and deploy many tiny gel bait dots at hotspots; dust key voids. Expect activity to spike at night as roaches feed. First deaths typically occur in 1–3 days.
• 7 days: Check traps and record catches; scrape and replace eaten or dried gel; re‑dust only if disturbed. Reinforce sealing and keep sinks/drains dry nightly. You should notice fewer sightings and smaller catches near treated areas.
• 30 days: You should see a substantial population drop. Refresh gels where needed and reapply the IGR per label interval. If monitors are still filling quickly in certain spots, add placements and sealing there or plan a coordinated building‑level treatment in multi‑unit settings.

Step 16. Product recommendations and how much to buy for a typical home

Choose tools that hit hidden harborages and keep bait palatable. Syringe-style gel baits with proven actives outperform sprays because roaches feed in cracks and transfer toxicants back to the colony. Dusts reach deep voids and keep working as long as they stay dry. Use your monitor map to scale up where activity is heaviest.

• Gel bait (primary): Look for fipronil, abamectin, hydramethylnon, indoxacarb, or dinotefuran. Prefer syringes for many tiny placements; if you use plastic bait stations (consumer brands like Combat/Raid/Ortho/Hotshot; pro lines like Maxforce/Advion/Advance/Avert/Alpine), note boxes are usually 12—under‑sink alone can use a whole box.
• Dust + duster: Boric acid or a silica/desiccant and a bulb/bellows duster. One canister goes far; apply a barely visible film in dry voids.
• Crack‑and‑crevice spray (optional): A small can with a straw for tight voids only; never broadcast on floors/baseboards or near bait.
• IGR (support): An insect growth regulator labeled for cockroaches to treat kitchen/bath/utility voids and shared chases.
• Sticky monitors: Several per hotspot to guide placements and track progress; replace when dusty or full.
• Exclusion/cleanup: Quality caulk, copper mesh, door sweeps, window insect mesh, degreaser, HEPA‑capable vacuum bags.

Scale quantities to your catches: start with enough gel to make dozens of tiny dots in every mapped hotspot and plan to refresh weekly the first month; add more stations or gel where traps stay busy.

Step 17. Common mistakes to avoid (and how to fix them)

Even good plans stall when a few easy-to-miss errors creep in. If you’re focused on how to get rid of cockroaches fast and for good, sidestep these pitfalls and apply the quick fixes so your baits, dusts, and IGRs can do their job.

• Using foggers/“bug bombs”: They don’t reach cracks, repel roaches, and pose fire risks. Fix: skip foggers; rely on gel baits, dusts, and targeted crack-and-crevice work.
• Spraying over bait placements: Residues contaminate or repel. Fix: keep sprays away from bait; treat separate areas and re‑bait afterward if needed.
• Broadcast baseboard/floor spraying: Roaches don’t linger there. Fix: inject labeled products into tight cracks and voids only.
• Dumping heavy dust piles: Roaches avoid them. Fix: apply a barely visible film; keep dusts dry.
• Weak sanitation and wet sinks/drains: Food and water outcompete bait. Fix: nightly clean, dry basins, fix leaks, rinse recyclables, and tighten trash.
• Too few or oversized bait dots: Coverage suffers. Fix: many tiny placements flush to edges; refresh weekly as eaten/dried.
• Skipping exclusion: Gaps feed and spread infestations. Fix: caulk seams, seal pipe/wire penetrations with mesh + sealant, add door sweeps and screens.
• No monitoring map: You can’t target what you don’t measure. Fix: place sticky traps flush to edges, log catches, and aim treatments where counts are highest.
• Dusting electronics: Can damage components. Fix: place a bait station behind/under appliances to draw roaches out instead.
• Using shelf paper/cardboard clutter: Adds harborage and food traces. Fix: remove shelf paper, paint shelves, and store items in sealed plastic bins.
• Treating a single unit in a shared building: Roaches migrate. Fix: coordinate timing and IGR use with neighbors/management across shared chases.
• Expecting overnight results: Life cycles take weeks. Fix: follow the 30‑day cadence; keep up bait refreshes and IGR intervals.

Step 18. Long-term prevention to keep cockroaches out for good

Winning the first month is half the job; staying roach‑free is about simple habits and tight maintenance. Long-term prevention keeps food, water, and shelter off the table and blocks the pathways roaches use to re-enter. Build these into your weekly and monthly routines so baits stay more attractive than your kitchen.

• Seal and maintain: Re‑caulk cabinet seams and baseboards as they open; pack pipe/wire gaps with copper mesh + sealant; add/maintain tight door sweeps; repair window insect screens.
• Deny food: Store all food in sealed containers or the fridge; nightly dishes and wipe‑downs; rinse recyclables; keep trash in tight‑lidded bins and take it out regularly.
• Deny water: Fix leaks fast; clean drains; dry sinks, tubs, and counters after use; mop up spills—keep areas clean and dry.
• Reduce harborage: Purge cardboard and clutter; avoid shelf paper; paint shelves and keep them clean; store items in lidded plastic bins.
• Keep a watch: Leave a few sticky monitors flush to edges in kitchens/baths; check monthly. If catches rise, refresh gel dots in those hotspots.
• Shared buildings: Coordinate sanitation, sealing, and drain maintenance with neighbors/management to prevent unit‑to‑unit migration.

Step 19. When to call a professional exterminator and what to expect

Call a pro when the infestation is heavy (daytime sightings, multiple rooms), sticky traps stay busy after 30 days, you’re in a multi‑unit building with roach migration, you’re battling American/Oriental roaches from drains/basements, or health/compliance is on the line (asthma, food service). Pros bring experience, building‑wide coordination, and products/techniques that reach deep harborages safely.

• Expect a thorough inspection and ID: Mapping hotspots (often with monitors) to target treatment.
• Methods that work: Crack‑and‑crevice gel baits, void dusts, and an IGR; no foggers, no random baseboard sprays. Many pro‑grade materials last for months.
• Exclusion + guidance: Sealing recommendations, sanitation coaching, and documentation of products used.
• Reasonable service plan: Some firms push year‑long contracts, but it shouldn’t take a full year to eliminate roaches in single‑family homes if treatment is done correctly.
• Prep and safety: Clear access (under sinks/behind appliances), remove/cover food/utensils, ventilate, and keep kids/pets out until dry.
• Smart questions to ask: Do you use gel bait + IGR? Will you share monitor counts and focus on cracks/voids? How will you coordinate adjacent units? What are the follow‑up schedule and warranty terms?

Step 20. Quick answers: instant killers, overnight fixes, smells that repel, and why not to crush roaches

You want fast clarity. Here are straight answers that fit the science and won’t derail your plan to get rid of cockroaches for good.

• Instant killers: Labeled contact sprays and a quick vacuum pass will knock down visible roaches fast; most roaches are killed by vacuuming. Helpful, but not a cure.
• Overnight fixes: None. There’s no true “overnight” solution—rapid results come from gel baits + dusts + an IGR (or a coordinated professional service).
• Smells that repel: Vinegar, herbs, or essential oils may smell strong but won’t control an infestation and can scatter activity. Stick to sanitation, sealing, baits, and dusts.
• Why not crush: Squashing smears allergens and microbes onto surfaces. If you do, bag it, disinfect the spot, and wash hands; use sticky traps and targeted treatments instead.

Step 21. Supplies and prep checklist before you start

A smooth start saves time and boosts results. Before you treat to get rid of cockroaches, gather the right tools and make access clear so baits and dusts reach real harborage. Use this concise checklist to stock up and prep in under an hour.

• Bright flashlight: Night inspections and crack checks.

• Sticky monitors: Edge‑flush mapping of traffic.

• Gel bait syringes: Fipronil/abamectin/hydramethylnon actives.

• Bulb duster + boric acid/silica: Light films in voids.

• IGR + crack‑and‑crevice aerosol: For life cycle and tight seams.

• Caulk + copper mesh: Seal pipe/wire gaps tight.

• Door sweeps/screens: Harden entries and vents.

• HEPA‑capable vacuum: Debris, fecal specks, shed skins.

• Degreaser (ammonia + water): Cut films that outcompete bait.

• Gloves/mask + trash bags: Safe handling and disposal.

• Clear access: Empty under sinks; pull appliances safely.

• Fix leaks/dry drains: Remove nightly water sources.

• Declutter/containerize: Lidded plastic bins, no cardboard.

• Rinse recyclables; tighten trash: Lids on, take out often.

• Label monitors/notes: Baseline catches to guide placements.

Wrap up

Roaches don’t fall to one “bomb.” They fall to a system: inspect, clean, exclude, map, then hit cracks with gel bait, dust key voids, and shut down the life cycle with an IGR—no gimmicks. Follow the 30‑day cadence, keep sinks dry and food sealed, and use monitors to steer refreshes. That’s how you get rid of cockroaches for good.

Need backup? In apartments, heavy infestations, or drain/basement issues, a coordinated professional plan saves time and prevents re‑infestation. Our experienced technicians use targeted baits, dusts, and IGRs—plus exclusion—to deliver safe, lasting results for homes and businesses. Get help now with a fast, customized plan from Redi Pest Control.