Termites don’t announce themselves with a sting or a squeal—they quietly eat your equity. By the time you notice stuck windows, hollow-sounding wood, or discarded wings, a colony may have been feeding for months. The right treatment can stop the damage and protect your home, but “right” depends on the termite species (subterranean, drywood, or dampwood), the construction of your property, and your budget and timeline.
This guide compares the major types of termite treatment—professional integrated programs, liquid-soil barriers, bait station systems, direct wood applications (borates, foams, injections), whole-structure fumigation, localized spot options (heat, microwave, orange oil), pre-construction barriers, and moisture/structural corrections. You’ll learn how each method works, when it’s best, typical costs and warranties, and whether it’s realistic as DIY or better left to a pro. We’ll also share a simple decision framework to match treatment to your situation and risk tolerance. If you need reliable, warrantied protection, we’ll show how Redi Pest Control LLC builds integrated plans that stop active infestations and prevent the next one—so you can get back to living, not worrying about what’s eating your house.
1. Professional integrated termite control (Redi Pest Control LLC)
What it is and how it works
An integrated program starts with a thorough inspection and species identification, then combines the right types of termite treatment into one plan. Depending on findings, that can include liquid-soil barriers, bait station systems, direct wood applications, and moisture corrections, followed by monitoring to confirm elimination and prevent re-infestation.
Best for termite type and situations
This approach fits complex or high-risk properties and any species: subterranean termites are addressed with soil termiticides or baits, drywood termites with whole-structure or targeted treatments, and dampwood termites with moisture reduction plus control products. It’s also ideal when you need both fast knockdown and long-term prevention under one accountable provider.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Pricing depends on species, structure size, construction type, and the mix of methods required. Plans typically include scheduled inspections and service visits; ask about retreatment guarantees, warranty terms, and any ongoing maintenance needed to keep coverage active.
DIY or pro?
Because termites live hidden in soil and wood and because effective control often requires trenching, drilling, specialized injectors, or even licensed fumigants, professional service delivers safer, more reliable results. Pros also match methods to species and construction, reducing costly trial and error.
Key pros and cons
A well-built integrated plan blends immediate control with prevention and accountability under one warranty-backed service, minimizing future surprises.
- Comprehensive: Multiple methods, one coordinated plan.
- Preventive: Ongoing monitoring and adjustments.
- Accountable: Single provider and clear warranty.
- Cost: Higher upfront than single-method DIY.
- Access/prep: May require drilling, trenching, or prep work.
2. Liquid-soil termiticide barrier treatments
What it is and how it works
This conventional “barrier” termite treatment creates a continuous treated zone in soil by trenching around foundations and, as needed, drilling through slabs. Applied termiticide kills or affects subterranean termites as they travel to and from the structure, with protection often lasting around five years.
Best for termite type and situations
Best for subterranean termites invading from the soil, including active infestations and long-term prevention. It’s less useful for drywood-only problems hidden in isolated wood where there’s no soil connection.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Pricing typically scales by linear footage, construction type (slab, crawl, basement), and drilling/trenching complexity. Warranties often include retreatment and annual inspections; maintaining the treated zone matters if soil is disturbed by landscaping or renovations.
DIY or pro?
Success hinges on a truly continuous treated zone; even small gaps can fail. Because trenching, drilling, and precise application are required, most homeowners choose professional service for reliability and a meaningful warranty.
Key pros and cons
A soil barrier offers fast protection at the most common entry points and doubles as prevention.
- Long-lasting: Multi-year protection.
- Fast protection: Immediate defense at entry routes.
- Versatile: Works for active and preventive needs.
- Intrusive: Trenching/drilling required.
- Coverage risk: Gaps or soil disturbance reduce efficacy.
3. Bait station systems
What it is and how it works
Stations circle the home; after activity is detected, slow‑acting bait is added. Foragers share it within the colony, spreading the active ingredient to nestmates. Success relies on routine inspections and timely re‑baiting.
Best for termite type and situations
Best for subterranean termites and homeowners who want ongoing oversight. It targets colonies at the source but works gradually, so it’s not an instant knockdown. Not a primary fix for drywood‑only issues.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Costs scale with station count and visit frequency. Many companies tie coverage to active monitoring; service visits check, refresh, and document stations to keep protection continuous.
DIY or pro?
DIY kits exist, but pro placement, species ID, and scheduled checks improve results and provide accountability. Pros can also pair baits with other types of termite treatment (soil or wood) when needed.
Key pros and cons
- Colony-level control: Low disruption to property.
- Ongoing oversight: Continuous monitoring and data.
- Slower action: Gradual results vs. liquids.
- Maintenance needed: Periodic service visits required.
4. Direct wood treatments (borates, foams, injections)
Direct wood treatments target termites where they live—inside the wood. Technicians apply borate solutions to exposed lumber or inject liquid termiticides and expanding foams into galleries and voids. These methods can kill active termites and leave residual protection in treated wood.
What it is and how it works
Surface sprays and borates soak into accessible wood; injected liquids and foams reach hidden tunnels and crevices to contact termites and protect the treated material.
Best for termite type and situations
Strong for localized drywood infestations and spot subterranean activity within structural members. Ideal on exposed framing during construction; useful as a supplement to soil or bait treatments.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Costs scale with access, number of inject sites, and finish repairs. Warranties are often limited to treated areas; follow-up inspections verify activity has ceased.
DIY or pro?
DIY borate sprays can work on exposed, unsealed wood. Injections and foams require proper drilling, delivery tips, and species ID—best handled by a pro.
Key pros and cons
- Targeted and preventive: Kills active termites and leaves protection in treated wood.
- Low disruption (when accessible): Limited demolition if access exists.
- Access dependent: Hidden framing can be hard to reach.
- Not whole-structure: Widespread drywood issues may require fumigation.
- May require drilling/patching: Some cosmetic repair needed.
5. Whole-structure fumigation (tenting) for drywood termites
When drywood termites are spread through finished areas, whole-structure fumigation treats the entire building at once. This type of termite treatment seals the home and releases gas that penetrates wood and voids.
What it is and how it works
Fumigants permeate the structure and disrupt termites’ metabolism when inhaled.
Best for termite type and situations
Best for widespread or uncertain drywood infestations; not for subterranean termites.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Pricing tracks size and prep; you’ll relocate. Warranties may include reinspection/retreatment, but fumigation doesn’t prevent future entry—follow with monitoring and exclusion.
DIY or pro?
Never DIY—fumigation requires licensed, permitted professionals.
Key pros and cons
Consider these trade-offs.
- Whole-structure reach: penetrates inaccessible wood and voids.
- Predictable results: one service addresses hidden colonies.
- No residual: pair with prevention to deter reinfestation.
- Disruption: vacate home and complete detailed prep.
6. Localized spot treatments for drywood termites (heat, microwave, orange oil)
Localized spot treatments target identified drywood galleries without tenting the entire structure. Pros apply directed heat, microwave energy, or inject plant‑based solvents (such as orange oil) into infested wood to kill termites in place.
What it is and how it works
This type of termite treatment focuses on known activity. Heat and microwave raise temperatures inside the wood, while injected products penetrate galleries to contact and eliminate termites.
Best for termite type and situations
Best for limited, accessible drywood infestations in trim, furniture, or one area. It’s not a fit for widespread or uncertain activity across the structure.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Pricing reflects access, number of treatment points, and any finish repairs. Warranties are typically limited to treated areas, with follow‑up inspections and possible re‑treatments.
DIY or pro?
Heat and microwave require specialized equipment and training. DIY orange oil attempts often miss hidden galleries—professional inspection and delivery improve detection, coverage, and results.
Key pros and cons
Keep these trade‑offs in mind.
- Low disruption: No tenting or fumigant gas.
- Targeted: Immediate kill when coverage/heat is achieved.
- Access dependent: Hidden galleries may be missed.
- Limited scope: Area‑only warranty; reinfestation risk remains.
7. Pre-construction termite treatments and physical barriers
The most cost-effective time to build protection is before the slab is poured and walls go up. Pre-construction types of termite treatment combine soil pretreatments with treated materials and simple physical barriers that deny termites an easy path into the structure.
What it is and how it works
Contractors apply termiticide to the soil where the structure will contact ground, then spray or brush termiticide onto new lumber or other building materials. Builders also add physical deterrents—concrete foundations, metal barriers/flashing, sealed joints, and wood-to-soil separation—to block hidden entry routes.
Best for termite type and situations
Best for preventing subterranean termite attacks in new construction and additions. It also reduces risk factors for dampwood termites by keeping wood dry and off soil; drywood pressure is lowered when exposed wood is sealed or borate-treated.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Often bundled into builder pricing; coverage typically starts at closing and may include retreatment guarantees. Keep grading, drainage, and soil around the foundation undisturbed and schedule annual inspections to maintain protection.
DIY or pro?
Timing and coverage are critical and usually coordinated by licensed professionals during construction to ensure complete, code-compliant pretreats.
Key pros and cons
- Strong prevention at lowest cost: Installed before problems start.
- Low disruption: No trenching/drilling after move‑in.
- Timing dependent: Must be done before and during key build stages.
- Not a cure‑all: Doesn’t stop future drywood swarms; later soil disturbance can break barriers.
8. Moisture management and structural corrections
Water invites termites and hides damage. This low‑tech, high‑impact type of termite treatment removes the conditions termites need and closes construction gaps they use to enter. Fixing leaks, improving drainage, keeping wood off soil, and maintaining ventilation protects framing and boosts the performance of any chemical or bait program.
What it is and how it works
Repair plumbing leaks, correct grading, clear gutters/downspouts, keep vents open, seal gaps, and eliminate wood‑to‑soil contact to dry out entry routes and food sources.
Best for termite type and situations
Critical for subterranean and dampwood termites; reduces pressure on any structure and pairs with other treatments for lasting control.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Often low to moderate cost; ongoing upkeep is required. These steps complement control methods but don’t carry a standalone pest warranty.
DIY or pro?
Homeowners can handle gutters, leaks, and simple sealing; hire pros for drainage, structural repairs, and code‑compliant corrections.
Key pros and cons
Consider the trade‑offs below.
- Foundational prevention: Lowers risk long‑term.
- Enhances other methods: Improves barriers and baits.
- No instant cure: Not enough for active colonies.
- Upkeep needed: Maintenance after storms or landscaping.
9. DIY termite control and monitoring
DIY termite control and monitoring can lower risk and buy time, but it’s best viewed as prevention and early detection—not a cure for established colonies hidden in soil or framing.
What it is and how it works
Homeowners place monitoring stakes or bait stations around the home, treat exposed, unfinished wood with borate solutions, seal gaps, and fix moisture issues. The focus is routine checks and small, targeted actions rather than whole-structure treatments.
Best for termite type and situations
Best as supplemental protection against subterranean pressure and for preventing damp, wood-to-soil conditions. Limited use for accessible drywood spots; not suitable when activity is widespread or uncertain.
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Upfront costs are modest (monitors, borate, sealants, safety gear), but results depend on consistent inspections. There’s no retreatment warranty, and missed activity can lead to costly damage.
DIY or pro?
Use DIY to monitor and reduce conducive conditions. Call a pro if you see mud tubes, discarded wings, frass, hollow-sounding wood, or any recurring activity.
Key pros and cons
Know the trade-offs before you commit.
- Low cost: Entry-level spend
- Preventive: Reduces conditions
- Limited reach: Misses hidden colonies
- No warranty: Risk remains
10. How to choose the right treatment for your situation
Start with a professional inspection to confirm species, map how far termites have spread, and note construction details that affect access. Then weigh your goals: fast stop vs. colony elimination, disruption tolerance, budget, and appetite for ongoing maintenance and monitoring.
What it is and how it works
Use a simple decision framework that aligns termite type and infestation extent with the most effective, practical method, and pair it with prevention so you don’t repeat the cycle.
Best for termite type and situations
Subterranean + need speed => Liquid-soil barrier
Subterranean + long-term oversight/low disruption => Bait system
Drywood widespread/uncertain extent => Whole-structure fumigation
Drywood localized/accessible => Direct wood or spot treatment
Dampwood or chronic moisture => Moisture fixes + targeted treatment
Costs, warranty and maintenance
Liquids often protect for years with retreatment warranties; baits require ongoing service for coverage; fumigation is one-and-done but leaves no residual; wood/spot treatments carry area-limited warranties. Factor monitoring visits and any soil disturbance that could void coverage.
DIY or pro?
DIY is fine for monitoring, moisture corrections, sealing, and borates on exposed wood. Active colonies, species uncertainty, drilling/trenching, and any fumigation should be handled by a licensed pro for safety, compliance, and a meaningful warranty.
Key pros and cons
Choose speed vs. subtlety (liquids vs. baits), scope (spot vs. whole-structure), and disruption vs. completeness. The lowest total risk usually comes from an integrated plan that blends control plus prevention under one warranty.
Key takeaways
Termites thrive out of sight, so the fastest savings come from early identification and the right mix of treatments. Match method to species and scope, then back it up with monitoring and moisture fixes. When in doubt, choose an integrated, warranty-backed plan over piecemeal fixes.
- Start with ID: Confirm subterranean, drywood, or dampwood.
- Need speed: Liquid-soil barriers stop subterranean access fast (multi‑year).
- Colony knockdown: Bait systems work broadly but more slowly.
- Drywood widespread: Fumigation treats the whole structure at once.
- Drywood localized: Direct wood/spot methods if galleries are accessible.
- Cut conditions: Moisture and structural corrections lower long-term risk.
- DIY wisely: Monitoring and moisture fixes—leave drilling/fumigation to pros.
- Protect your spend: Prefer clear warranties and scheduled inspections.
Want one accountable plan that stops activity and prevents the next swarm? Get a fast, no‑pressure inspection from Redi Pest Control LLC and secure your home with a tailored, warrantied program.


