Your home could be under attack right now and you might not even know it. Termites work silently behind walls, under floors, and in crawl spaces. By the time you spot the damage, they’ve already caused thousands of dollars in structural harm. These pests cost American property owners over $5 billion annually in damage and treatment costs. You need to act fast when you suspect an infestation.
You have options. You can tackle termite control yourself with the right products and methods, or you can hire professional exterminators who bring specialized equipment and expertise. Both approaches work when done correctly. The key is understanding what type of termites you’re dealing with, which treatment method fits your situation, and how much you should expect to spend.
This guide walks you through the complete process of termite control and treatment. You’ll learn how to confirm an infestation, compare DIY versus professional approaches with real cost breakdowns, apply effective treatments using soil barriers or bait systems, and prevent future problems. We’ll cover everything from identifying termite swarms to choosing the right termiticide for your property.
What to know before you treat termites
Successful termite control and treatment starts with proper preparation. You can’t just spray some pesticide and hope for the best. You need to understand what species you’re dealing with, how long treatment takes, and what regulations apply in your area. Subterranean termites account for 95% of infestations in the United States, but drywood termites require completely different treatment approaches. The wrong method wastes money and lets the colony continue destroying your property.
Know your termite species
Three main termite types attack homes in North America. Subterranean termites live in soil and build mud tubes to reach wood, making soil treatments most effective. Drywood termites nest inside the wood itself and need localized treatments or whole-structure fumigation. Formosan termites are an aggressive subterranean species found mainly in southern states. Each species requires specific products and application methods. You’ll waste time and money if you treat drywood termites with a soil barrier designed for subterranean species.
Identifying the termite species correctly determines which treatment method will actually work for your situation.
Understand the treatment timeline
Most termite treatments don’t work overnight. Liquid barrier treatments create protection within 24 hours but require extensive drilling and trenching. Bait systems take 3 to 6 months to eliminate an entire colony but cause less disruption. You need to account for inspection time, preparation work, and follow-up visits. Professional treatments often include a warranty period with scheduled monitoring visits.
Step 1. Confirm that you have termites
You can’t start termite control and treatment until you verify that termites are actually the problem. Carpenter ants and other wood-damaging insects often get mistaken for termites, leading to wasted money on the wrong treatment. You need to check for specific signs that confirm a termite infestation before spending hundreds or thousands on treatments. A proper inspection takes 30 to 60 minutes and focuses on areas where termites are most active.
Look for swarming termites and discarded wings
Termite swarmers appear in spring when colonies produce winged reproductive termites that leave to start new nests. You’ll spot groups of flying insects near windows, doors, or light fixtures. These swarmers have straight antennae and two pairs of equal-length wings, while ant swarmers have bent antennae and unequal wing lengths. After swarming, termites shed their wings in small piles that look like fish scales near windowsills or doorways.
Finding discarded wings near entry points confirms active termite activity and signals you need immediate treatment.
Inspect for mud tubes and hollow wood
Subterranean termites build pencil-width mud tubes along foundation walls, in crawl spaces, and on exposed wood surfaces. Break open a section of any tube you find. Live termites inside the tube confirm an active infestation. Probe exposed wood with a screwdriver or knife, pushing gently into beams, joists, and sills. Termite-damaged wood sounds hollow when tapped and feels soft or crumbles easily. Focus your inspection on areas with moisture problems, basement walls, wooden decks, and spaces where wood contacts soil. Document what you find with photos and measurements to compare treatment options later.
Step 2. Choose DIY or pro and compare costs
Your budget and comfort level with pesticide application determine which termite control and treatment path works best. DIY treatments cost $200 to $800 for materials and equipment, while professional services range from $1,300 to $3,000 for an average home. You save money handling it yourself but risk incomplete treatment if you miss colonies or apply products incorrectly. Professionals bring licensed expertise, specialized equipment, and treatment warranties that DIY methods can’t match. Calculate your total costs before deciding.
Calculate DIY treatment costs
You’ll spend $50 to $150 on a termiticide concentrate like imidacloprid or fipronil, which covers 100 to 200 linear feet of foundation. Soil treatment requires a pump sprayer ($40 to $100), drill with masonry bits ($50 to $150), and measuring equipment. Bait station systems cost $300 to $600 for 10 to 20 stations around your home’s perimeter. Add protective gear like gloves and safety glasses ($20 to $40). Your time investment runs 8 to 16 hours for initial application plus ongoing monitoring. DIY works best for isolated infestations, preventive barriers, or supplementing professional treatments.
DIY termite treatments save money upfront but require precise application skills and ongoing monitoring that most homeowners underestimate.
Evaluate professional service pricing
Professional exterminators charge $1,300 to $2,500 for liquid barrier treatments on homes under 2,000 square feet. Bait system installation costs $800 to $1,500 plus $300 to $500 annual monitoring fees. Larger properties or severe infestations push prices to $3,000 or higher. Most companies include a warranty covering retreatment if termites return within one to five years. Get quotes from three licensed providers that specify treatment method, covered area, warranty terms, and follow-up schedule. Professional service makes sense for active infestations, whole-home protection, or when you lack time and equipment for proper DIY application.
Step 3. Apply the right termite treatments
You need to match your treatment method to the termite species and infestation severity you confirmed in Step 1. Liquid soil barriers work best for active subterranean termite colonies because they create a treated zone that kills termites on contact and prevents new entries. Bait systems eliminate entire colonies gradually but require consistent monitoring over several months. Wood treatments protect specific vulnerable areas like deck posts or crawl space joists. Most effective termite control and treatment combines multiple approaches for comprehensive protection.
Apply liquid soil barrier treatments
Dig a 6-inch-wide trench along your foundation that reaches down to the footing, typically 6 to 12 inches deep. Mix your termiticide according to label instructions, which usually calls for 4 gallons of solution per 10 linear feet of foundation. Pour the mixed solution into the trench while it’s open, then refill the trench and apply another 4 gallons on top of the soil surface. Drill holes every 12 inches through concrete slabs, patios, or driveways that sit against the foundation. Inject termiticide through each hole at the rate specified on the label, usually 2 to 4 gallons per hole. Seal all drilled holes with concrete patch after treatment.
Apply termiticide under porches and crawl spaces by creating a continuous barrier along all foundation walls and piers. Use a pump sprayer or soil rod to inject product 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface. Focus on areas where you found mud tubes or termite activity. Treatment creates a chemical barrier that remains effective for 5 to 10 years depending on the active ingredient.
Professional-grade termiticides like imidacloprid or fipronil require precise dilution ratios and application rates to work effectively without contaminating groundwater.
Install and monitor bait stations
Place bait stations every 10 feet around your home’s perimeter, positioning them within 2 feet of the foundation. Dig a hole for each station that matches its size, insert the station, and add untreated wood or cellulose monitoring material. Check stations every 30 days for termite activity by removing the cap and inspecting the bait material. When you find termites feeding, replace the monitoring material with termiticide bait according to manufacturer instructions. Continue checking monthly until you see no termite activity for three consecutive inspections. Replace consumed bait immediately to maintain colony elimination pressure. Bait systems work slowly but eliminate the queen and entire colony over 3 to 6 months.
Step 4. Prevent termites from coming back
Successful termite control and treatment doesn’t end after elimination. Prevention measures keep colonies from reestablishing and protect your investment in treatment. You need to modify conditions that attract termites and maintain physical barriers around your property. These ongoing maintenance steps cost little but prevent expensive retreatment down the road. Annual inspections catch new activity before it becomes a major infestation.
Fix moisture problems and seal entry points
Reduce humidity in crawl spaces and basements to below 60% using dehumidifiers or improved ventilation. Repair leaking pipes, gutters, and downspouts immediately because termites need moisture to survive. Seal cracks in your foundation larger than 1/16 inch using concrete caulk or foam. Apply weatherstripping to doors and windows where you see gaps. Install vapor barriers in crawl spaces to block ground moisture from reaching wooden structures. Check your roof for damaged shingles or flashing that allows water to penetrate walls and attic spaces.
Eliminating moisture sources removes the conditions termites need to establish new colonies in your home.
Remove wood-to-soil contact and maintain barriers
Cut back all tree branches and shrubs that touch your home’s exterior, maintaining at least 12 inches of clearance. Remove mulch, firewood stacks, and lumber stored within 3 feet of your foundation. Replace wooden deck posts or fence posts that sit directly in soil with concrete footings and metal standoffs. Schedule annual inspections with a licensed professional who checks for new mud tubes, termite activity, and treatment barrier integrity. Inspect your bait stations every 3 months if you maintain a monitoring system. Document each inspection with photos and notes that track changes over time.
Move forward with confidence
You now have a complete roadmap for termite control and treatment from inspection through prevention. Start with proper identification to confirm you’re dealing with termites rather than other pests. Compare DIY and professional costs honestly based on your skill level, available time, and severity of the infestation. Apply liquid barriers or bait systems following label directions precisely, then maintain prevention measures that eliminate moisture and wood-to-soil contact.
Most homeowners save money and stress by calling professionals for active infestations. Licensed exterminators bring specialized equipment, proven techniques, and warranties that protect your investment. Redi Pest Control offers comprehensive termite solutions with fast response times and experienced technicians who customize treatments for your specific situation. Professional service ensures complete colony elimination and long-term protection.
Take action today whether you choose DIY or professional treatment. Every day you wait allows termites to cause more structural damage that increases repair costs. Document your inspection findings, get multiple quotes if hiring professionals, and schedule treatment within the next two weeks for best results.


